Paris Women’s Fashion Week kicked off Monday with a debut show from South African label Maxhosa Africa and a new collection from new Canadian label Matieres Fecales, aimed at lifting the current darkness of the region.
Around 67 runway shows are scheduled for this fashion week—covering the Spring/Summer 2027 season—with many more brands preparing to showcase their designs through private previews and events in the French capital.
Heavyweight designers Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will present their collections on Tuesday.
This could be the last show for Belgian Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello, who has been responsible for the brand’s success over the past decade but is reportedly on the verge of leaving.
If his exit can be confirmed, he likely won’t be the only creative director on the cutting edge, as luxury brands—facing a challenging retail period—look to revive their fortunes.
According to the special blog *Miss Tweed*, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli—who is now at Balenciaga—is reportedly under scrutiny by parent company Kering, having struggled to maintain the sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna.
Meanwhile, at Chloé, creative director Chemena Kamali—who holds the title from 2023—is also reportedly being pushed towards an exit, according to research site *Glitz*, amid concerns about lack of profitability.
Pascal Morand, Executive Director of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, told AFP, “There were ‘golden years’ for the sector after COVID, peaking in 2023, followed by a relatively stable luxury fashion market since then.” “Big conglomerates, mid-sized brands, and young creatives are not all affected in the same way. Markets, outlets, and business models are changing,” he said.
Bright Spot
While most brands are seeing a decline in sales, there are bright spots.
Since his arrival at the helm of the French brand last year, Matthieu Blazy has made a big splash in sales; customers have even been seen queuing outside some boutiques to buy its latest collection.
Its Spring-Summer show will take place next Monday.
Another source of inspiration is MaXhosa Africa, a luxury clothing collective founded in 2010 by fashion designer Laduma Ngxokolo. Having previously exhibited private collections in Paris, Ngxokolo has now been invited to join the official programme.
With a mission to promote South African culture and the heritage of the Xhosa people, Ngxokolo counts the likes of Michelle Obama and Beyoncé among her followers.
With her first show on Monday, she will be hoping to emulate the success of the Canadian brand Matières Fécales, which debuted last March and has since dressed many celebrities and A-listers.
The brand’s unusual name—which means “fecal matter” in French—was chosen so that consumers who purchase its clothes will do so for the design alone, rather than the brand name.
Following in the footsteps of Julie Kegels, Weinsanto, and Hodakova, the Matières Fécales exhibition at 7:00 PM (1700 GMT) will conclude on the first day of Paris Fashion Week.
